Monday, November 23, 2009

Using Gas Barbecue Grills for Braising

Not very long ago, chef Bruce Aidell wrote about a new era in gas grilling with what he calls "barbecue-braising." This is a terrific cooking method for gas barbecue grills and is really very simple. Because it calls for a very long cooking time, however, it is not very practical for charcoal grills, although with faithful tending and skill, it could still be done.

What is Braising?

First, a quick cooking lesson. Braising is a very old cooking technique particularly good for less tender cuts of meat. It has two basic steps: first, sear the meat in oil or fat and second, cook it in liquid slowly, usually for several hours, in the oven. The pot of choice is the Dutch oven, followed by the crock pot. Some professional chefs would say that excellence in braising is actually very difficult, involving as it does the need to choose just the right liquid, add the perfect aromatics and then simmer carefully for just the right length of time. The goal is meat that melts.

Steps in Using a Grill to Braise

So how do you braise on a gas grill? The fundamentals are the same, with a little extra fillip if you follow Aidell's method. Before you give it a try, make sure you are using a gas grill that is not going to run out of fuel within the first hour; this method requires potentially hours of cooking, so a small propane tank most assuredly will not do.

Sear
Step one after prep is to sear the meat on the grill which will add that delicious flavor that you cannot get when sauteing indoors. Depending on your recipe, you will have prepped the meat with a rub or marinade. Keep in mind that for this step, you want the same high heat and quick sear that you would be using in traditional grilling.

Simmer
Then you will place the meat in a pot with a braising liquid of choice and cover it. Now you need to switch heating methods; turn down the high heat and keep just one burner or section turned on. In other words, create indirect heat at a relatively low temperature. Put the pot on the grate, not directly over the fire, and close the lid of the grill. You will be cooking for several hours, most likely, depending again on the recipe. You can check on things from time to time, but since you are using gas, you do not have the challenge of constant oversight that the charcoal chef would have.

Glaze
Then comes the piece de resistance. The true distinction between braising in your indoor oven and using the barbecue for braising is taking the meat from the pot and returning it to direct high heat. Apply a glaze that will caramelize into a tasty crust on the exterior of the meat. This creates a tender, intensely flavorful cut that rivals anything you will find in a fine restaurant. And better yet, this kind of recipe is perfect for a party or for tailgating, since it needs attention only at the very beginning and very end and gives you plenty of time for socializing in between.

Barbecue braising is yet another illustration of the versatility of the gas grill.

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